Guides / Unauthorized charges

How to dispute an unauthorized charge

A charge you did not make or approve should be reported fast. Federal law limits how much you can lose, but the protection depends on how quickly you act and whether it was a credit card or a debit card.

1. Lock things down right away

Call your card issuer or bank as soon as you spot the charge. Ask them to freeze or cancel the card and send a new one. Change passwords for any online accounts linked to the card. Write down the date and time you called and the name of the person you spoke with.

2. Check whether it is really fraud

Look for a free trial that turned into a subscription, a charge from a family member, a business name that is different from the store name, or a pending hold that will drop off. If it is a subscription you forgot to cancel, our cancellation guide is the better fit. If you truly did not make or authorize the charge, keep going.

3. Know your credit card protections

Under the Fair Credit Billing Act, an unauthorized charge is a billing error. Send a written dispute so it reaches the issuer within 60 days after the first statement showing the charge was sent, using the billing-inquiries address on your statement. The issuer generally must acknowledge it within 30 days and resolve it within two billing cycles (no more than 90 days). Your liability for unauthorized credit card use is capped at $50, and if only your card number was stolen (not the card itself), you generally owe nothing. See the FTC’s guide to disputing credit card charges.

4. Know your debit card and bank protections

Debit cards and bank transfers fall under the Electronic Fund Transfer Act, and timing matters more. If your card was lost or stolen and you report it within 2 business days, your loss is generally capped at $50. After that it can rise to $500, and if you wait more than 60 days after your statement was sent, you could lose more. If your card was not lost but unauthorized charges appear on your statement, report them within 60 days after the statement was sent. Banks generally must investigate within 10 business days, or up to 45 days in many cases if they give you a provisional credit. The FTC explains the details for lost or stolen credit, ATM, and debit cards.

5. Follow up in writing and escalate if needed

A phone call starts the process, but a written dispute is what protects your rights, especially for credit cards. Keep copies, check your next statements, and watch for a temporary credit. If someone used your information to open new accounts, report it at IdentityTheft.gov and see our fraudulent account guide. If the bank or issuer will not fix it, you can submit a complaint to the CFPB.

What your letter should include

• Your name, address, and account number (last four digits is often enough)
• The date, amount, and merchant name of each unauthorized charge
• A clear statement that you did not make or authorize the charges
• When you discovered them and when you first reported them by phone
• A request to remove the charges and any related fees or interest
• A note that the letter is sent to the billing-inquiries address, plus copies of any proof

Keep a copy of everything you send, and note the date you sent it.

Frequently asked questions

Should I still pay my credit card bill while the charge is disputed?

Pay the rest of your bill as usual. Under the Fair Credit Billing Act you can generally withhold payment on the disputed amount while it is investigated, and the issuer cannot report that amount as late during the investigation. Paying the undisputed balance on time avoids late fees.

Is a dispute the same as a chargeback?

People use the words interchangeably. A dispute is your request to the issuer; a chargeback is the issuer reversing the charge with the merchant. For unauthorized charges, the issuer handles it with the merchant, and you do not have to contact the merchant first.

What if the charge is from a company I know but did not approve?

Some issuers treat a charge from a company you have dealt with, like a renewed subscription, as a billing dispute rather than fraud. You can still dispute it in writing. Include any proof that you canceled or never agreed to the charge.